FABRIC GUIDE

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GABARDINE (GABERDINE)

A smooth durable twill-woven cloth esp. of worsted, spun rayon or cotton. Clear finish, tightly woven, firm, durable, rather lustrous. Can be given a dull finish. Has single diagonal lines on the face, raised twill. Wears extremely well. Also comes in various weights. Inclined to shine with wear. Hard to press properly. Used in men's and women's tailored suits, coats, raincoats, uniforms, and men's shirts.

Gabardine garments should be carefully dry cleaned.

GEORGETTE

Georgette is a thin silk or crêpe dress material. Usually done in silk but can also be found in manufactured fibers. It is characterized by its crispness, body and outstanding durability. It is sheer and has a dull face. Georgette was named after Georgette de la Plante (c. 1900), a French dressmaker.

Most georgette garments should be dry cleaned.

Heirlooming and preservation of antique clothing is also recommended for museums as well as individuals.

GINGHAM

Gingham is a cotton or linen cloth, for the name of which several origins are suggested. It is said to have been made at Guingamp, a town in Brittany; the New English Dictionary derives the word from Malay ging-gang, meaning “striped.” The cloth is now of a light or medium weight, anil woven of dyed or white yarns either in a single colour or different colours, and in stripes, checks or plaids. It is made in Lancashire and in Glasgow, and also to a large extent in the United States. Imitations of it are obtained by calico-printing. Uses include dresses, blouses, trimmings, kerchiefs, aprons, beach wear, curtains, bedspreads, and pajamas.

Gingham may be dry cleaned.

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HERRINGBONE [See WOOL]

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JACQUARD

Woven fabrics manufactured by using the Jacquard attachment on the loom. This attachment provides versatility in designs and permits individual control of each of the warp yarns. Thus, fabrics of almost any type or complexity can be made. Brocade and damask are types of jacquard woven fabrics.

Joseph Jacquard recognized that weaving, although an intricate and delicate task, was highly repetitive task. He believed that the weaving of complex patterns could be automated just the manufacturing of simple patterns had. He conceived a system that relied on stiff, pasteboard cards with various patterns of punched holes. At each throw of the shuttle a card was placed in the path of the rods. The pattern of holes in the card determined which rods could pass through4 and thus acted as a program for the loom. This control system allowed for flexibiliy and various levels of complexity in the patterns and is considered a pre-cursor to today's computer.

Jacquard may be dry cleaned. Heirlooming and preservation of antique jacquard is also recommended for museums as well as individuals.

JERSEY

Jersey was first made on the island of Jersey off the English coast and used for fisherman's clothing. Jersey has has lengthwise ribs (wales) on its right side and its wrong side has crosswise ribs (courses). Very elastic with good draping qualities. Has special crease-resistant qualities due to its construction. Is knitted plain or has many elaborate tweed designs and fancy motifs as well as printed designs. Can look very much like woven fabric. Stretch as you sew. Uses: Dress goods, sportswear, suits, underwear, coats, gloves, sweaters, hats.

Jersey garments may be dry cleaned.

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KNIT [See COTTON, POLYESTER]

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