FABRIC
GUIDE
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MICROFIBER
The
first microfibers were developed in Japan over 20 years
ago. One of the best-known of the early microfibers is Ultrasuede®,
which is made of polyester microfibers. It became economically
possible to use microfibers in the 1980s, with DuPont introducing
their first, also made of polyester, in 1989.
For
as long as microfiber technology has been around, ultra-microfiber
technology has been too. These are fibers that are less
than 0.1 denier. Several different processes can be used
to make these fibers, all involving the splitting of a larger
fiber into many smaller ones.
DuPont's
microfiber, which was introduced in 1989, is a variety of
polyester that has extremely
thin filaments. It is tough, resilient, and can be manufactured
to extremely fine tolerances, many times thinner than other
synthetics. It is this strength, precision and absolute
sheerness as well as its phenomenal absorbency that give
rise to so many applications, including an amazing ability
to clean and dry surfaces. Microfiber (specifically polyester)
as the sole constituent of a cloth will wear and shed fiber
with use, so it is best utilized in combination with nylon.
Many uses; used in bras, dockers, pillowcases.
Microfiber
may be dry
cleaned.
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MOHAIR
The
angora goat is one of the oldest surviving animals known
to man, and is said to have originated in the mountains
of Tibet, homeland of the pious Tibetan monks. Mohair, the
fleece of this delicate creature, is famous for its softness,
brilliance and receptiveness to rich dyes, facts which make
its history traceable to ancient times.
The
Angora Goat is named after Angora in Turkey, better known
today as Ankara, the capital city. The word "Mohair"
is derived from the ancient Arabic word "Mukhaya"
meaning "cloth of bright goats' hair". The
Angoran people attributed the beauty of the fleece (Mohair)
not to climatic conditions, but to the power of the Hadji
Bayram Veli, a holy man, and weaved the fleece into silk-like
cloth to be worn by Sultans.
Dry
cleaning for mohair is always recommended - especially
if the garment has interlinings or shoulder pads.
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MUSLIN
From
the French Mousseline, from Mussolo, Mosul, a city
in Iraq (Mesopotamia). A
smooth delicately woven cotton
fabric, used for dresses and curtains. Coarser cotton
fabrics used for shirts and sheeting are sometimes also
called muslins.
Muslin
garments, quilts, and household items may be dry
cleaned. Heirlooming
and preservation of antique muslin is also recommended
for museums
as well as individuals.
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NEEDLEPOINT
The
roots of needlepoint go back thousands of years to the ancient
Egyptians, who used small slanted stitches (similar to the
common "tent" stitch now used in needlepoint)
to sew up their canvas tents. There are also many references
in the Bible to elaborate needlework on religious articles,
including the tent used for worship in ancient Israel.
In
the Middle Ages there were two types of needlework that
were forerunners of modern needlepoint. In 13th century
Europe, one kind of embroidery was done on coarsely-woven
linen fabric which was similar to canvas mesh. Tapestries,
another important art form of that era, were actually woven
on vertical (up and down) threads on a loom.
One
of the most famous of all needlepointers lived in the 16th
century - Mary, Queen of Scots. As a rival of Queen Elizabeth
I, she was imprisoned for many years of her life. To pass
the time, she stitched an enormous number of canvases, a
living legacy of the Elizabethan era.
Most
needlework should be dry
cleaned. Heirlooming
and preservation of antique needlepoint and tapestries
is also recommended for museums
as well as individuals.
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NYLON
This
manufactured fiber is very strong and is resistant to both
abrasion and damage from many chemicals. It is elastic,
easy to wash and is quite lustrous. It returns easily to
its original shape and is non-absorbent. It is fast drying,
resistant to some dyes, and resistant to moths and other
insects, water, perspiration and standard dry-cleaning agents.
Uses include hosiery, knitted or woven lingerie, socks and
sweaters, rugs and carpets, tents, sleeping bags, duffle
bags, racquet strings, fishing lines, sails, tire cord,
machine belting, filter netting, fish nets, laminates, and
ropes.
Nylon
may be dry
cleaned.
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PERCALE
First
made in New Bedford's Wamsutta Mills in 1876, a closely
woven, smooth-finished, plain or printed cotton
cloth used primarily for bed sheets.
Percale
garments
may be dry
cleaned.
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POLYESTER
Polyester
began as a group of polymers in W.H. Carothers' laboratory.
Carothers was working for duPont at the time when he discovered
that alcohols and carboxyl acids could be successfully combined
to form fibers. Polyester was put on the back burner, however,
once Carothers discovered nylon.
A
group of Brittish scientists--J.R. Whinfield, J.T. Dickson,
W.K. Birtwhistle, and C.G. Ritchie--took up Carothers' work
in 1939. In 1941 they created the first polester fiber called
Terylene. In 1946 duPont bought all legal rights from the
Brits and came up with another polyester fiber which they
named Dacron.
Polyester
was first introduced to the American public in 1951. It
was advertised as a miracle fiber that could be worn for
68 days straight without ironing and still look presentable.
In
1958 another polyester fiber called Kodel was developed
by Eastman Chemical Products, Inc. The polyester market
kept expanding. Since it was such an inexpensive and durable
fiber, amny small textile mills emerged all over the country--many
located in old gas stations--to produce cheap polyester
apprel items.
Polyester
experienced a constant growth until the 1970s when sales
drastically declined due to the negative public image that
emerged in the late 60s as a result of the infamous polyester
double-knit fabric!
Today,
polyester is still widely regarded as a "cheap, uncomfortable"
fiber, but even now this image is slowly beginning to change
with the emergence of polyester luxury fibers such as polyester
microfiber.
Polyester
is sometimes referred to it as "plastic" because
of its tendency to melt under the iron, and also because
of the stiff, warm hand that garments made of polyester
tend to have.
Polyester
may be dry
cleaned.
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POPLIN
A
plain-woven fabric usually of cotton,
with a corded surface. Has a more pronounced filling effect
than broadcloth. It is mercerized and has quite a high luster.
It may be bleached, dyed (usually vat dyes are used) or
printed. Heavy poplin is given a water-repellent finish
for outdoor use. Originally made with silk
warp and a heavier wool filling.
Some poplins are mildew-proof, fire-retardant, and some
given a suede finish. Used in sportswear, shirts, boy's
suits, uniforms, draperies, blouses, dresses.
Most
poplin garments and hosuehold items should be dry
cleaned.
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QUILTS
Averil
Colby's Quilting (London, Batsford, 1978) cites one
of the earliest examples of quilting as a "carved ivory
figure of a Pharoah of the Egyptian First Dynasty, wearing
a supposedly quilted mantle, c. 3400 B.C."
More
history of quilting can be found in the popular literature
of the Middle Ages, where references to quilts abound, usually
in the form of bed quilts. Certainly some of the most colorful
examples of quilting and needlework
are found in the paintings of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance,
a time when quilting became a decorative art form as well
as a means of keeping warm.
In
colonial America, families settled in remote regions where
supplies were often scarce. Women were expected to make
clothing for the family, and very often they wove and spun
the fabric themselves. Every scrap became valuable, and
every fabric scrap was used. Many young girls made quilt
tops in preparation for their eventual marriage, using fabrics
imported from England, a rare and precious commodity.
The
Industrial Revolution changed quilting dramatically. Printed
fabrics were more readily available, and houses were better
heated, diminishing the need for heavy quilts. Victorian
ladies turned patchwork into a new form, the crazy quilt.
Irregular pieces of silk and velvet were heavily embroidered
to turn into lap covers.
Today,
quilting has reached the level of art. In addition to beautifully
hand-sewn traditional patterns, many quilters use their
quilts as political or personal statements. Pictorial quilts,
abstract quilts, and watercolor quilts have reached a level
of sophistication never seen before. Many quilters also
combine different fabrics, or dye their own fabrics to create
truly original works of art.
Quilts
may be dry
cleaned. Heirlooming
and preservation of antique quilts is also recommended
for museums
as well as individuals.
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